Solderless Breadboard¶
The bench staple. Plastic block with sprung metal clips inside, arranged in columns of 5. Sold in 400-point (half-size, ~83 × 55 mm) and 830-point (full-size, ~165 × 55 mm) variants.
How it's wired¶
Two horizontal power rails (+ red, − blue) along each long edge, and
vertical columns of 5 tie-points in the middle, split by a central trench.
+ ─ ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ← red rail (V+)
- ─ ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ── ← blue rail (GND)
a b c d e | f g h i j ← tie-point columns (5 holes each)
1
2
3
...
| ← trench (split a-e from f-j; DIP chips straddle it)
- All 5 holes in a column (e.g.
a1–e1) are connected. a1–e1andf1–j1are separate (split by the trench).- Power rails run the full length, but some bigger boards split them halfway — check yours.
Tips¶
- Insert components straight — bent leads scratch the clips.
- Power rails of cheap boards often don't span the full length. Verify with a multimeter or just bridge with a jumper.
- Use solid-core 22 AWG hookup wire — stranded splays inside the clip and loosens contact.
When to leave the breadboard¶
- High-current loops (> 1 A) — voltage drop and contact heating kill reliability
- RF circuits — parasitic capacitance changes layout-to-layout
- Anything you'll ship — solder it on perfboard or order a PCB
Schematic¶
Not applicable — a breadboard is a wiring substrate, not a circuit.
Last updated: 2026-05-13 · Source on GitHub